What We Do

Services

Here's the full range of concrete work we take on, from a small repair to a brand new driveway.

HomeServices

Everything we take on

Every job below is one we do ourselves across Richmond.

Concrete Driveways

A driveway takes more abuse than any other slab on the property, tires turning in the same spot, de-icer in the winter, the occasional delivery truck. A compacted gravel base of at least four inches goes down first, then wire mesh or rebar depending on the load, then a pour at a minimum four-inch thickness so it doesn't flex under a vehicle. Joints get saw-cut the same day to control where it cracks.

Concrete Patios

Patios don't carry the weight a driveway does, but they still need to drain away from the house or water ends up sitting against the foundation. Every pour slopes a quarter inch per foot minimum and finishes broom, exposed aggregate or stamped depending on what you want underfoot. Most patios cure enough to walk on in a day and take furniture in about a week.

Stamped Concrete

Stamped concrete gets you the look of flagstone, brick or slate without the cost of setting individual pieces. The concrete gets colored before the pour, stamped while it's still plastic, and sealed once it's cured so the color holds up to UV and salt. The window to stamp is short, maybe an hour depending on the weather, so timing the pour right matters more here than on a plain slab.

Concrete Walkways & Sidewalks

A walkway is a smaller pour but it still needs a real base and proper joints, or it heaves right along with everything around it. Slope and finish get matched to the existing hardscape so a new sidewalk section doesn't look like a patch job. Some Richmond streets have sidewalk permit requirements, and that paperwork gets handled before the crew shows up.

Concrete Repair

Cracked, sunken or spalling concrete usually comes down to a base that failed or water that got underneath and froze. Sometimes epoxy injection or mudjacking can raise a sunken section back to grade, and sometimes the slab has to come out and get repoured. We'll tell you honestly which one your slab actually needs before quoting it.

Concrete Slab Foundations

A slab foundation for a shed, addition or garage has to sit on soil that's been compacted and tested to carry the load above it. Forms get set to exact dimensions, rebar goes in per the engineering if the job calls for it, and the pour goes to the thickness the structure requires. Get this wrong and everything built on top of it inherits the problem.

Concrete Steps & Porches

Steps take a different kind of stress, foot traffic concentrated on a narrow tread instead of spread across a slab. Each riser and tread gets formed to code height and depth, and the tread surface gets a finish so it doesn't turn slick when it's wet. A porch slab gets the same attention to drainage as any patio, sloped away from the door.

Garage Floor Concrete

A garage floor deals with oil, de-icer salt tracked in on tires, and the weight of a parked vehicle sitting in the same four spots for years. It gets poured thicker than a typical patio slab and can finish with a broom texture for grip or a sealed finish that's easier to clean. Vapor barriers go in underneath if the garage sits over living space or gets finished later.

Concrete Resurfacing

Resurfacing is a thin overlay poured over an existing slab that's structurally sound but worn, pitted or discolored on the surface. It costs a fraction of tearing out and repouring, but it only works if the base slab isn't cracked through or heaving. The existing concrete gets tested before we recommend it, so you're not paying to cover up a problem that'll come back.

Retaining Walls & Concrete Curbing

Retaining walls hold back soil on a slope, and if the drainage behind them isn't right, the wall takes on hydrostatic pressure it wasn't built for. Drainage gravel and pipe go in behind every wall, not just the concrete itself. Curbing is a smaller job but it still needs a real footing so it doesn't shift when a mower or a car tire catches the edge.

How It Works

Four steps, and no surprises in any of them.

01

We come and look

You tell us what you want doing, we look at what is actually there, and we ask the awkward questions early.

02

You get a price

In writing, itemised, free. If something might add cost later we flag it now rather than at the end.

03

We do the work

Same crew throughout. We cover your floors, keep the dust down and tidy up before we leave each day.

04

We walk it with you

You point out anything you are not happy with and we fix it before the invoice, not after.

Where We Work

All of this, across Richmond, VA

Every service listed here is available across Richmond and the surrounding counties.

Richmond, VA
Chesterfield, VA
Midlothian, VA
Mechanicsville, VA
Petersburg, VA
Colonial Heights, VA
Hopewell, VA
Glen Allen, VA
Short Pump, VA
Chester, VA
Ashland, VA
Common Questions

Things worth asking

Questions that come up once a concrete job is actually underway.

Is a permit needed for a new concrete driveway or patio?
Permits are typically required for new driveways, especially where they connect to a public street or sidewalk, and for any structural slab like a foundation. Patios and walkways on private property often don't need one, but local code varies by county, so it gets checked before a pour is scheduled.
How long does a typical concrete project take?
A driveway or patio pour itself usually takes one day, but the base prep, forming and excavation before it can add two to four more days depending on size. The concrete needs about 24 to 48 hours before foot traffic and roughly a week before a vehicle drives on it.
Can concrete work be done on a tighter budget?
A plain broom finish in a standard thickness costs less than stamped or colored concrete and is the easiest way to bring a budget down. Reducing the footprint, phasing the project, or reusing an existing base where it's still sound are other ways to control cost without cutting corners on reinforcement.
Is the concrete work guaranteed?
A workmanship warranty typically covers cracking or settling caused by installation error, though concrete is a natural material and hairline shrinkage cracks within control joints are normal and not a defect. Warranty terms should be spelled out in writing before a job starts.
Who handles questions once a concrete project is underway?
One point of contact typically handles scheduling changes, questions during the pour, and any adjustments once the job is running, rather than passing calls between different people. That contact should be reachable by phone throughout the project.
What materials are used, and can they be chosen?
Standard ready-mix concrete, rebar or wire mesh for reinforcement, and finish options including broom, exposed aggregate, stamped and colored concrete are all available. The choice depends on the slab's use, since a driveway requires different reinforcement than a decorative patio.
Is it possible to stay in the house during a driveway or patio replacement?
Living in the house during concrete work is normal, since the work happens outside and doesn't affect utilities or interior access in most cases. Driveway access is blocked for a few days during the pour and cure, so parking arrangements are worth planning ahead.
How should the site be prepared before the crew arrives?
Clearing furniture, vehicles, potted plants and anything stored on or near the work area ahead of time speeds up the job. Sprinkler lines, buried cable or anything underground in the excavation zone should be flagged or pointed out before digging starts.
What happens if something unexpected turns up once the old concrete is out?
Soft or unstable soil, old buried debris, or a drainage issue under the existing slab sometimes turns up once demolition starts, and it gets addressed before any new concrete goes down. Extra cost from unexpected site conditions should be discussed and approved before work continues, not added to the final bill as a surprise.
How should new concrete be cared for after it's poured?
New concrete should stay free of vehicle traffic for about a week, and de-icing salt should be avoided for at least the first winter, since it can pit the surface before the concrete fully cures. Sealing the surface every few years helps it resist staining and freeze-thaw damage long term.

Not sure what you need?

Describe the problem and we will tell you what it probably is. No obligation.

Call (804) 719-4256